Corneotherapy is a remedial skin treatment methodology with its core principle being the repair and maintenance of the skin barrier defence systems. As the name suggests, Corneotherapy is closely related to Corneobiology, which is the physiological, biologic and biochemical processes of the stratum corneum; the outermost layer of the epidermis.
It is now widely understood that the outer layer of corneocytes of the stratum corneum is a biologically active cellular tissue. The co-inventor of Retin-A, U.S. dermatologist Dr Albert Kligman and his partners discovered that the stratum corneum, and the lipid barrier that keeps it intact, play a significant role in skin health; it can send many signals to the underlying living epidermis and influences the regenerative processes in deeper layers of the skin.
This understanding of skin health, along with appropriate interventions and topical treatments is an ensemble of therapies that Dr Kligman labelled “Corneotherapy”.
With this knowledge, modern Corneotherapy centric therapeutic interventions have shown that optimally functioning barrier defences, including a healthy innate immune system can prevent or reduce structural inflammation that is the precursor to many anomalous skin conditions such as EFAD, Xerosis, Itchyosis, and Eczema.
These preventative interventions are primarily directed to correction and restoration of the stratum corneum and barrier defence systems that have been rendered defective or impaired by disease, or intrinsic and extrinsic factors.
The correct application of Corneotherapeutic principles have been shown to restore homeostasis and an improved function of the entire integument; protecting against harmful substances and microorganisms that can trigger these anomalous conditions.
The principles of Corneotherapy can also be applied not just the correction of skin conditions, but for the supportive prevention of skin problems; the prevention of premature skin aging is an inherent outcome of this approach.
There are many skin conditions that initially present with a compromised or defective stratum corneum and all have the ability to trigger continual inflammatory responses of the innate and adaptive immune systems. It is this inflammation that is the precursor to premature skin ageing, and many of the more serious skin conditions prevalent today.
Unfortunately, many of the more popular but rudimentary skin treatment philosophies that remove the first two lines of skin barrier defences by chemical or mechanical methods, and often trigger already depleted defence systems in skin that is not in optimal health; compounding the anomalous conditions.
A key principle of Corneotherapy is to keep the epidermis intact at all times, with the therapeutic actions working from the outer layers of the epidermis inward. This approach of retaining the integrity of the epidermis ensures the skins defence and immune systems are not stimulated unnecessarily.
The methodology of Corneotherapy requires a greater understanding of the skin than established esthetics and beauty therapy training provides as its focus is the repair and maintenance of the skin barrier defence systems rather than the simple application of moisturisers.
The goal of the Corneotherapist is to address the cause of the skin conditions, not merely treat the symptoms, and so for treatments to be successful with Corneotherapy; it must begin with a precise diagnosis of the skin and an investigation of the contributing factors to the prevailing conditions.
Because Corneotherapy is also an individualized approach to skin care and treatment, following a logical path that investigates and defines the causes of the conditions before selecting appropriate interventions and therapeutic applications is a sequence that achieves the best outcomes.
As such, a Corneotherapist will acquire a working knowledge of cosmetic chemistry and understand what the effects and influences of specific types of ingredients will have on the conditions presented. This contrasts with the more simplistic approach of treating symptoms without determining the causes.
One of the major advantages of Corneotherapy compliant products is that they are largely free of side effects in comparison with a treatment with topical pharmaceuticals. Preventively applied Corneotherapy practices may extend the intervals between flare-ups and reduce or even avoid the application of conventional dermatics such as steroid or cortisone-based creams.
So how are the skin care products used by Corneotherapists different than conventional cosmetics and topical pharmaceuticals? First and foremost, the chemical composition of the components of the formula should be skin-identical or skin-related, and ideally should be a simple as possible, with core components that mimic or simulate skin structure and function; specifically, Corneotherapeutic formulations should be compatible with the lipid phase of the skin’s own lipid structures.
True dermatological cosmetics following Corneotherapeutic principles should also be free from active compounds, (active agent cocktails with a multitude of components) emulsifiers or consistency agents that require stabilization with antioxidants; emulsifiers that cannot be degraded in the skin, emulsifiers that are incompatible with the skin barrier or do not correspond to the physiology of the skin, and be free from perfumes and fragrance.
Summary:
It is the two characteristics; (1) taking time to thoroughly investigate the causes of the conditions and (2) not just treating the symptoms with repeated application of products with pharmacological action (or in some cases potentially contraindicated to the condition); that perhaps define Corneotherapy from more conventional approaches.
Consequently, Corneotherapy can be considered the skin care methodology for the progressive skin care practitioner who wants to deliver genuine, long-term results for their clients and patients.
